Surfing

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER Read with Jenna Book Club Pick as Featured on Today From the author of Carrie Soto Is Back, Daisy Jones & The Six, and The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo . . . “Irresistible . . . High drama at the beach, starring four sexy, surfing siblings and their deadbeat...

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer....

From Susan Casey, bestselling author of The Devil’s Teeth, an astonishing book about colossal, ship-swallowing rogue waves and the surfers who seek them out. For centuries, mariners have spun tales of gargantuan waves, 100-feet high or taller. Until recently scientists dis­missed these...

A powerful feminist nature writing by the pioneer of women's big wave surfing in Ireland. Easkey Britton provides a rare female perspective on surfing, exploring the mental skills it fosters and the need to recognize the value of the ocean and of nature's cycles in our lives....

In my small town bookstore, I’m surrounded by book boyfriends, but I've never had one in real life. At almost 30, I’m painfully shy, I’ve never been in love, and my bookstore isn’t breaking even.

From the New York Times bestselling author of The Border, a “down-and-dirty dip into the treacherous social currents of Southern California” (The Wall Street Journal), in which P.I. Boone Daniels agrees to defend a young man accused of murdering a beloved surfer and local legend. Former cop...

It’s summer, and there’s a big surfing competition coming to the OBX. Competitors—like Kie and Rafe—will participate in paddle-in and tow-in surfing events....

Written by one of the most revered surfers of his generation, Gerry Lopez's Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories about a lifetime of surfing. But more than that, it is a collection of stories about the lessons learned from surfing. It presents 38 stories about those who have...

Chasing a dream is never easy, but if you go far enough, it will set you free. Captain Liz Clark spent her youth dreaming of traveling the world by sailboat and surfing remote waves. When she was 22, she met a mentor who helped turn her desire into reality. Embarking on an adventure that most...

Josie Bianci was killed years ago on a train during a terrorist attack. Gone forever. It’s what her sister, Kit, an ER doctor in Santa Cruz, has always believed. Yet all it takes is a few heart-wrenching seconds to upend Kit’s world....

From the bestselling author of Assholes: A Theory, a book that—in the tradition of Shopclass as Soulcraft, Barbarian Days and Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance—uses the experience and the ethos of surfing to explore key concepts in philosophy. The existentialist philosopher Jean-Paul...

Fed up with teenage life in the suburbs, Jaimal Yogis ran off to Hawaii with little more than a copy of Hermann Hesse's Siddhartha and enough cash for a surfboard. His journey takes him from communes to monasteries, from the warm Pacific to the icy New York shore....

Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same....

A reissue of the classic novel that inspired the movie Point Break and pioneered a genre....

For 20 years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers - a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden popularity....

The Diary of a Surfer Villager is the epic tale of a visionary, 12-year-old villager, Jimmy Slade, whose only dream in life is to become a surfer—even though there are no waves. With hard work, perseverance, and the help of his best friend, Emma, he is able to realize his dream....

From surfer and writer Stuart Holmes Coleman, Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii.

Sometimes life’s waves knock you down; other times, life might seem to sweep you along powerless. But the choice is always yours to swim back up to the light....

When Maui's biggest local surfing event of the year hits the island, Charlie plans on sticking to the sidelines, cheering for Zoe, safely away from the water. But on day one of the competition, a body washes up on shore, and it’s one of Vesper’s ex-boyfriends....

Laird Hamilton has been hailed as the world's greatest big-wave surfer. His first book, Force of Nature, allows listeners a rare glimpse inside the unique philosophy that has created his circumstances, and not the other way around....