In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews Tom Cuddy, an exercise physiologist, to discuss exercise physiology and the testing he does to understand an athlete's physiology. He explains the different energy systems in the body and how they produce ATP, the role of muscle fibers in different types of athletes, and the importance of lactate in energy production. Tom also discusses the use of physiological testing to design training programs and optimize performance. In this conversation, Tom Cuddy discusses the importance of understanding training design and tailoring it to individual goals and needs. He emphasizes the significance of knowing the energy systems and fuel sources required for specific activities, such as mountaineering. Tom also highlights the misconception that high-intensity training is necessary for progress and explains the importance of low-intensity training for endurance goals. He delves into the concept of running economy and introduces the idea of vertical running economy, which measures the energy expenditure of running uphill. Tom shares his research findings on the determinants of vertical running economy and the physiological metrics that contribute to efficient uphill running. He also discusses the accessibility of metabolic testing and his efforts to make it more available to athletes.

Takeaways

• There are different energy systems in the body that produce ATP to fuel muscle contraction during exercise.
• Muscle fibers play a role in an athlete's performance, with slow twitch fibers being used during low-intensity activities and fast twitch fibers being used during high-intensity activities.
• Lactate is an important fuel source that can be recycled and used by different muscle fibers.
• Physiological testing, such as VO2 max and lactate threshold testing, can provide valuable information for designing training programs and optimizing performance.
• Training can influence an athlete's physiology and the percentage of different muscle fibers in their body. Understanding the specific goals and needs of an individual is crucial for designing effective training programs.
• Tailoring training to maximize the relevant energy systems and fuel sources is essential for optimal performance.
• Contrary to popular belief, low-intensity training plays a significant role in achieving endurance goals.
• Running economy, including vertical running economy, is an important metric for measuring energy expenditure during uphill running.
• Physiological metrics such as VO2 max, VO2 at lactate threshold, and lactate levels can help predict and improve running economy.
• Efforts are being made to make metabolic testing more accessible to athletes and provide actionable insights for training.

Engagement Link

https://www.calibratedcoaching.com/

• Mental strength is crucial in mountaineering, especially as climbers reach higher altitudes where physical performance is limited.
• Balancing resilience with pushing too far requires discernment, which can be developed through respect, education, skill, communication, and experience.
• Assessing and managing risk is challenging, and climbers must be aware of confirmation bias and the difficulty of making good decisions in intense situations.
• Mitigating risk involves evaluating the likelihood and consequences of potential dangers and setting personal limits to ensure safety.

In this episode of Finding Elevation, host Lisa Thompson interviews her friend Dr. Tracee Metcalfe, an expedition doctor, and high altitude mountaineer. They discuss Dr. Metcalfe's journey into mountaineering, common medical issues in the mountains, using medications like Diamox while climbing, and managing altitude sickness. Dr. Metcalfe also shares details on her upcoming project to climb the final 5 of the world's 14 8,000-meter peaks to raise money for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches mountaineering skills to women in Pakistan and Afghanistan.

Main Discussion Points:

• How Dr. Metcalfe first got into climbing after moving to Colorado for college despite growing up in southern California
• Treating acute mountain sickness, sunburns, frostbite, blisters and other issues as an expedition doctor on mountains like Denali and Everest
• Using medications like Diamox for better sleep and oxygen saturation at altitude
• Recognizing signs of pulmonary edema and cerebral edema
• Dr. Metcalfe's upcoming climbs of Shishapangma, Lhotse, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak to complete all 14 eight-thousanders
• Fundraising through her climbs for Ascend Athletics, an organization that teaches women in Pakistan and Afghanistan leadership and mountaineering skills.

Links:

https://traceelmetcalfe.com/

Tracee’s fundraising site to teach Pakistani girls mountain skills: https://www.pledge.to/empowering-girls-to-climb-to-new-heights--

Colorado Mountain Club

Helpful Gear:

AirTrim mask

LeukoTape

Alpine Armor Tape

Hydrocolloidal Patches

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