This episode features a story from Matt Warshaw’s book Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave. It’s called “Morning at Freshwater.”

When this story was written in the 1990’s, most people believed Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to Australia in 1914. Today, we know there were earlier examples of wave riding in Australia, but Duke’s visit to Freshwater remains a defining moment that helped surfing take root and grow into a national passion. With a board he shaped by hand during his first two weeks in Australia, Duke paddled out and showed the crowd on the beach something most had never seen before — the pure art of wave riding.

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Let’s paddle out.

The Greg Noll Da Cat model surfboard is one of the most sought after surfboards of all time. One early first generation board sold for around $34,500, and even the 250 limited edition reissues made in the 1990s, hand signed by both Dora and Noll, are highly prized by collectors.

Today, I’ll be reading four stories from Drew Kampion’s incredible book Greg Noll: The Art of the Surfboard. The selected stories are “The Greg Noll Da Cat Model,” “Me, Miki, and Da Cat,” “A Tale of Two Cats,” and “The Copy Cat.” There’s so much great material in this book, but I wanted to share these particular stories the highlighted Greg Noll’s relationship with Miki Dora and their collaboration on the legendary and much sought-after Da Cat surfboard models.

The author of these stories, Drew Kampion has been a friend of the podcast since day one so please take the time to visit his website drewkampion.com.

Just a reminder that if you want to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees needed to get the podcast out each month so any little bit helps.

Today Billy Jack reads the short story The Lost Coast from our friend Drew Kampion’s book The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf. This one is for all the surfers in the PNW.

If you would like to help support the podcast you can do so by visiting buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary to do so. It helps cover the cost of the podcasting platform fees needed to get the podcast out each month so any little bit helps.