Make It Ours
Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh
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Narrateur(s):
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Robin Givhan
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Auteur(s):
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Robin Givhan
À propos de cet audio
“[Robin Givhan] captures that shift with the kind of clarity and nuance that honors the late designers’ many layers. There’s never been a book like this.”—Essence
Virgil Abloh’s appointment as head of menswear for Louis Vuitton in 2018 shocked the fashion industry, as he became the first Black designer to serve as artistic director in the brand’s 164-year history. But as Pulitzer Prize–winning culture critic Robin Givhan reveals, Abloh’s story encompasses so much more than his own journey.
Using Abloh’s surprising path to the top of the luxury establishment, Givhan unfolds the larger story of how the cloistered, exclusive fashion world faced a revolution from below in the form of streetwear and designers unafraid to storm the gates—how their notions of what was luxury simultaneously anticipated and upended consumer preferences, and how a simple T-shirt held as much cultural power as a haute couture gown. As Givhan relays, Abloh rose during a time of existential angst for a fashion industry trying to make sense of its responsibilities to a diverse audience and the challenges of selling status to a generation of consumers who fetishized sneakers and prioritized comfort. The story of how that moment came to be, and how someone like Abloh—who had no formal training in pattern-making or tailoring—could come to symbolize and embody the industry’s way forward, is the story at the heart of this book.
Make It Ours is at once a remarkable biography of a singular creative force and a powerful meditation on fashion and race, taste and exclusivity, genius and luxury. With access to Abloh’s family, friends, collaborators, and contemporaries, and featuring a cast of fascinating characters ranging from visionary Black designers like Ozwald Boateng to Abloh’s mercurial but critical employer and mentor Kanye West, Givhan weaves a spellbinding tale of a young man’s rise amid a cultural moment that would upend a century’s worth of ideas about luxury and taste.
Instead of providing meaningful insight into Abloh’s life and work, the author seemed to use his name as a starting point to focus more broadly on the history of Black designers in fashion. While that subject is important and worth writing about, it overshadowed the very figure the book was supposed to highlight. Abloh’s story was never explored in the depth it deserved, and as a result, nothing in the book truly stood out about him.
Another issue was the level of detail spent on things that felt unnecessary for the intended audience. Large portions of the book explain basics like Air Jordans and other well-known sneaker models. If someone is reading a book about Virgil Abloh—a designer whose career redefined streetwear and high fashion—they probably don’t need a primer on what Jordans are.
Overall, the book came across as being written by someone who doesn’t fully understand the world Virgil Abloh helped shape. Rather than celebrating his groundbreaking achievements and offering readers new perspective on his artistry, Make It Ours felt more like a missed opportunity
A Missed Opportunity to Capture Virgil
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