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At Enoteca Maria, the chefs are nonne, or Italian grandmothers, whose culinary expertise comes from years of cooking for their families. Now, they invoke the food wisdom, artisanal methods, and recipes—handed down for generations—that are indigenous to their regions of Italy. Each nonna/chef creates her menu from whatever looks inspiring in her pantry—spontaneously, the way family meals evolve. Here are the recipes and stories from the kitchen at Enoteca Maria, a beautiful compendium of food and nostalgia, capturing flavors from the heart of Italy.

When Ellie and Sandy met after becoming empty-nesters and then widows, their late-in-life friendship blew open a new, exciting chapter of life: living fearlessly and adventurously. But they never could’ve imagined it would also propel them—in their 80s—to accidental fame, going viral on social media as the ‘travelling grannies,’ inspiring people young and old across cultures when they went around the world in 80 days. While still working full-time, they’ve adventured the world for decades—always on the unbeaten path and a budget ($29.00/per night.)