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The Climbing Doctor Podcast

The Climbing Doctor Podcast

Auteur(s): Jared Vagy
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À propos de cet audio

 The Climbing Doctor Podcast dives deep into how to prevent and rehabilitate rock climbing injuries. Jared Vagy interviews medical providers, coaches, climbers, and trainers to learn the best strategies to climb injury-free. Each episode covers a wide variety of topics including injury diagnosis, mobility training, strength exercises, and movement technique. Hygiène et mode de vie sain
Épisodes
  • Energy System Training - Steve Smith

    Energy System Training - Steve Smith
    Jul 1 2025
    In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Steve Smith go over the complexities of energy system training for climbers, particularly focusing on how to effectively train with limited resources. They discuss the importance of understanding muscle contractions, the various energy systems involved in climbing, and practical training protocols that can be implemented off the wall. The conversation emphasizes the need for a personalized approach to training, including a needs analysis to determine the most effective training components for individual climbers. The episode concludes with key takeaways on how to optimize climbing fitness while minimizing the risk of injury. Steve Smith's Bio Steve Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, who is a board certified specialist in Orthopaedic Physical Therapy, and Strength & Conditioning. He has been climbing since 2006, and has a particular interest in specialized sport training and rehabilitation, using science and evidence-based practice to improve performance and return patients to their highest level of athletic abilities. Steve works in an academic Orthopedic and Sports Medicine setting and, in his free time, acts as a training and injury risk reduction consultant to local competitive and recreational climbers. He currently lives in Huntington, WV with his wife, son and daughter. Chapters 00:00 Introduction to Energy System Training 04:30 Understanding Limited Resources in Training 10:17 Muscle Contractions and Their Importance 17:03 Energy Systems Overview 24:33 Components of Energy System Training 29:56 Practical Applications of Training 33:54 Understanding Climbing Intensity and Training 39:36 Exploring Strength Endurance and Pump Training 47:29 Assessing and Programming for Climbing Training 50:48 Needs Analysis in Climbing Training 01:03:34 Key Takeaways for Effective Climbing Training Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast 📥 Energy Systems Training Downloadable Resource🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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    1 h et 8 min
  • How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster

    How to Prevent and Recover from Meniscus Injury - Joshua Foster
    May 1 2025

    In this conversation, Jared Vagy and Josh Foster discuss meniscal injuries in rock climbers. They explain what a meniscal injury is and how climbers can injure their meniscus. They discuss the signs and symptoms of a meniscal injury and how it is diagnosed and treated. They also outline a rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries, including exercises to restore range of motion and strengthen the muscles around the knee. They emphasize the importance of proper movement patterns and provide climbing-specific exercises to prevent meniscal injuries in climbers.

    Joshua Foster's Bio

    Josh Foster is a Doctor of Physical Therapy with a passion for movement and health, beginning his journey in 2001 when he discovered climbing. He has been deeply embedded in the climbing community for over 20 years, starting as a youth competitor who reached the national level in high school. He spent 12 years setting routes and more than a decade as a youth competitive climbing coach, where he facilitated success for new athletes and national champions.

    Chapters

    • 00:00 Introduction
    • 01:23 What is a meniscal injury and how do climbers get them?
    • 06:52 Diagnosis and treatment of meniscal injuries
    • 09:00 Rehabilitation plan for meniscal injuries
    • 22:47 Movement patterns and climbing-specific exercises
    • 30:35 Preventing meniscal injuries in climbers

    Links and Resources for This Episode:

    • 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast
    • 🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode

    Social Media and Webpage:

    • 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles:

    Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools

    • Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts

    Injury Rehab Coures

    • Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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    39 min
  • Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges

    Ankle Sprain Rehab for Rock Climbers - Nicholas Hedges
    Mar 1 2025
    In this conversation, Dr. Nick Hedges discusses the importance of the lower body, specifically the ankle, in climbing. He highlights the prevalence of ankle injuries in climbing and the potential consequences of ankle sprains. Dr. Hedges provides self-assessment techniques to determine ankle susceptibility and reduce the risk of injury. He also explains how to test ankle mobility and function, as well as how to tease out the different systems involved in balance. Dr. Hedges offers tips for training and improving balance and provides insights on benchmarking and comparing balance performance. The conversation concludes with a case study of sprained ankles in a climbing gym. This conversation explores the assessment, treatment, and rehabilitation of ankle sprains in rock climbers. The importance of addressing ankle stability and mobility is emphasized, along with the need to determine the severity of an ankle injury. The stages of ankle rehabilitation are discussed, including the unload stage, partial loading stage, initial loading stage, dynamic and plyometric stage, and fear avoidance. The conversation concludes with a reminder to seek professional help if needed and to prioritize ankle health to prevent chronic instability and future injuries. Nicholas Hedges's Bio Nic Hedges has a Doctorate in Chiropractic as well as a Masters degree in Sport Science and Rehabilitation. Since graduating chiropractic school, Nic has taught anatomy and physiology at Colorado Mountain College. He was also a member of the climbing special interest group, which provided him the opportunity to collaborate with other professionals in a niche sport. He is now the proud owner and operator of Synergy Sports Clinic in Grand Junction, Colorado. When he’s not working in clinic, he can be found climbing in rifle or trail running. Chapters 00:00 Introduction and Background01:30 The Importance of the Lower Body in Climbing06:19 The Consequences of Ankle Sprains08:02 Self-Assessment for Ankle Susceptibility and Injury Risk Reduction11:33 Testing Ankle Mobility and Function14:26 Teasing Out the Different Systems Involved in Balance21:09 Benchmarking and Comparing Balance Performance22:39 Case Study: Sprained Ankles in a Climbing Gym22:46 Importance of Assessing and Addressing the Ankle27:05 Determining the Severity of an Ankle Injury35:30 Stages of Ankle Rehabilitation44:05 Closing Thoughts on Ankle Sprains and Rock Climbing Links and Resources for This Episode: 📝 Full Article Reviewed in the Podcast🎥 Video YouTube Podcast Episode Social Media and Webpage: 🕸️Webpage / 📸 Instagram /📍Pinterest / 📝 Blog Articles: Books, Injury Protocols, and Rehab Tools Climb Injury-Free Book / Self-Help Injury Protocols / Rehab Tools: /Brand Partner Discounts Injury Rehab Coures Courses for Medical Providers / Courses for Coaches
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    51 min
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